Welcome to SS22, A Hectic Reset
Miilkiina's Guest Editor Osama Chabbi's highlights of the new fashion season

It’s official, we’ve officially entered the post-covid world. A world that expects us to change our bad habits, regulate our over consumption or simply make our choices more ethical than ever. However, it seems like fashion has clearly gone back to its old ways which ultimately feels very reassuring and concerning at the same time as we’re fully back to regular programming (apparently in full force). Today, we look back together at an intense Fashion Month full of emotions, successive collections that navigated between eclectic dynamism, bright acidic tones, stretchy latex and sensational memorials. From New York, to Paris, watching these shows from home has taken me through a wide array of emotions: passion, nostalgia, optimism with hints of confusion. 

All images courtesy of Vogue Runway

Amongst the bright tones and electric shadows, the color grey seemed to be contrastingly quite prominent on runways. I took some time to think about a deeper meaning and thought: grey is comforting, grey is transitional, grey is not really white yet not really black. Grey was the sweats we spent our lockdown days in, grey is gloomy, grey is the in-between, hence why we speak of a grey area? I somehow managed to tie it to the current state of fashion in a world that seems ready to re-start yet didn’t fully recover. Maryam Nassir Zadeh and Miu Miu are the first ones that come to mind with grey full fits reminiscent of the Prada archives. On the other hand, monochromatic fits were also at the center of the stage across the big four. Aren’t we all looking for ease after all? We could be.

Despite being a unanimous fashion statement, monochrome remains a low-key choice. Could it be the new uniform? Something that enables you to comfortably express your individuality yet withdraw in times of discomfort? Perhaps. 

Amidst the trends that stood out the most this season, a contradicting hyper sexuality seemed to be another prominent hit which seems to be an instinctive response in times of crisis. From cut-out tops for all at Ludovic de Saint Sernin, to backless dresses and micro shirts at BluMarine and Missoni’s body celebratory knit choices. It seems like fashion is laying the ground for the expected return of the porno-chic which John Galliano mastered during his infamous Dior years. As fashion is full circle, it does come with no surprise that the current vintage wave hitting your Instagram explore page would bring sexy back. But between gloomy attires and micro-dazzled tops, aren’t we slightly lost?

Screen Shot 2021-10-18 at 6.20.10 PM

To give you a straight to the point, extensive yet brief sum up of this hectic month let’s follow the schedule. The usually very hectic and messy New York did gain a firmer grip with collections that seemed more affirmed with sharper designs. Think Peter Do, Proenza Schouler and Khaite.

On the other hand, London delivered up to its widespread reputation by bringing fresh creative blood to the surface. Despite happening without Stella McCartney, Burberry and Sarah Burton’s McQueen (which had a show at a later date), the city didn’t lose its edge.

As for Milan, from Prada, Fendi to Versace the usual icons were enough to make the floor shake. Kim Jones’ Fendi was an interesting take on Italian tailoring and refinement while Versace’s stand alone show took us back to the 2000s. You’re now wondering why I said “stand alone” well, the Versace show was followed by the unexpected collaboration of the season: Fendace, which actually isn’t fashion’s first luxury collaboration since Kering group giants’ Balenciaga and Gucci did work on a co-branded collection the season prior. Despite major efforts to make this a pop-culture moment, the collection didn’t receive much applause on social media and quickly became the epicenter of internet jokes. 

8D4B9CC2-4267-44F3-9747-1A9423627EEE

And finally, Paris. The cherry on top of the fashion cake shall I say, between humility and over-the-top moments with heart warming sprinkles of love. Paris, known as the fashion savior, came with a golden cape.

Key moments included LVMH Prize finalist, Kenneth Ize with his refreshing bold knits and Saint Laurent’s Trocadéro waterfall. Balmain celebrated 10 years of Rousteing while JW Anderson’s, Loewe made sandals with soap-shaped heels and Coperni had a show in a weed field. Last but not least, after collaborating with Fortnite, Balenciaga deep dived into the mainstream world by working on a short film with none other than The Simpson’s. And to wrap up an intense month, fashion came together and 40 designers gave homage to Alber Elbaz and his legacy with designs celebrating his love for life, for love and passion. 

Despite its toxic traits and bad habits, fashion is full of love and so was Paris. Not so bad after all.

Welcome to SS22, A Hectic Reset
Miilkiina's Guest Editor Osama Chabbi's highlights of the new fashion season

It’s official, we’ve officially entered the post-covid world. A world that expects us to change our bad habits, regulate our over consumption or simply make our choices more ethical than ever. However, it seems like fashion has clearly gone back to its old ways which ultimately feels very reassuring and concerning at the same time as we’re fully back to regular programming (apparently in full force). Today, we look back together at an intense Fashion Month full of emotions, successive collections that navigated between eclectic dynamism, bright acidic tones, stretchy latex and sensational memorials. From New York, to Paris, watching these shows from home has taken me through a wide array of emotions: passion, nostalgia, optimism with hints of confusion. 

All images courtesy of Vogue Runway

Amongst the bright tones and electric shadows, the color grey seemed to be contrastingly quite prominent on runways. I took some time to think about a deeper meaning and thought: grey is comforting, grey is transitional, grey is not really white yet not really black. Grey was the sweats we spent our lockdown days in, grey is gloomy, grey is the in-between, hence why we speak of a grey area? I somehow managed to tie it to the current state of fashion in a world that seems ready to re-start yet didn’t fully recover. Maryam Nassir Zadeh and Miu Miu are the first ones that come to mind with grey full fits reminiscent of the Prada archives. On the other hand, monochromatic fits were also at the center of the stage across the big four. Aren’t we all looking for ease after all? We could be.

Despite being a unanimous fashion statement, monochrome remains a low-key choice. Could it be the new uniform? Something that enables you to comfortably express your individuality yet withdraw in times of discomfort? Perhaps. 

Amidst the trends that stood out the most this season, a contradicting hyper sexuality seemed to be another prominent hit which seems to be an instinctive response in times of crisis. From cut-out tops for all at Ludovic de Saint Sernin, to backless dresses and micro shirts at BluMarine and Missoni’s body celebratory knit choices. It seems like fashion is laying the ground for the expected return of the porno-chic which John Galliano mastered during his infamous Dior years. As fashion is full circle, it does come with no surprise that the current vintage wave hitting your Instagram explore page would bring sexy back. But between gloomy attires and micro-dazzled tops, aren’t we slightly lost?

Screen Shot 2021-10-18 at 6.20.10 PM

To give you a straight to the point, extensive yet brief sum up of this hectic month let’s follow the schedule. The usually very hectic and messy New York did gain a firmer grip with collections that seemed more affirmed with sharper designs. Think Peter Do, Proenza Schouler and Khaite.

On the other hand, London delivered up to its widespread reputation by bringing fresh creative blood to the surface. Despite happening without Stella McCartney, Burberry and Sarah Burton’s McQueen (which had a show at a later date), the city didn’t lose its edge.

As for Milan, from Prada, Fendi to Versace the usual icons were enough to make the floor shake. Kim Jones’ Fendi was an interesting take on Italian tailoring and refinement while Versace’s stand alone show took us back to the 2000s. You’re now wondering why I said “stand alone” well, the Versace show was followed by the unexpected collaboration of the season: Fendace, which actually isn’t fashion’s first luxury collaboration since Kering group giants’ Balenciaga and Gucci did work on a co-branded collection the season prior. Despite major efforts to make this a pop-culture moment, the collection didn’t receive much applause on social media and quickly became the epicenter of internet jokes. 

8D4B9CC2-4267-44F3-9747-1A9423627EEE

And finally, Paris. The cherry on top of the fashion cake shall I say, between humility and over-the-top moments with heart warming sprinkles of love. Paris, known as the fashion savior, came with a golden cape.

Key moments included LVMH Prize finalist, Kenneth Ize with his refreshing bold knits and Saint Laurent’s Trocadéro waterfall. Balmain celebrated 10 years of Rousteing while JW Anderson’s, Loewe made sandals with soap-shaped heels and Coperni had a show in a weed field. Last but not least, after collaborating with Fortnite, Balenciaga deep dived into the mainstream world by working on a short film with none other than The Simpson’s. And to wrap up an intense month, fashion came together and 40 designers gave homage to Alber Elbaz and his legacy with designs celebrating his love for life, for love and passion. 

Despite its toxic traits and bad habits, fashion is full of love and so was Paris. Not so bad after all.

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